James Beard award winner Paul Kahan is no stranger to the heat of the kitchen. As the executive chef of four of Chicago’s hottest restaurants – Blackbird, avec, Publican and Big Star – Kahan has a reputation for being one of the most exciting and influential working chefs in the country.
Kahan won the James Beard award for “Best Chef in the Midwest” in 2004, and has been nominated three times for Outstanding Chef. In 2010, he was named a National Pork Board Celebrated Chef because of his creative takes on classical cuisine and his advocacy for more pork on more menus. Kahan is also slated to open a butcher shop later in 2011 where his team will break down whole hogs for use in all four of his restaurants, as well as for retail sale in the shop.
From commuting to work on his bicycle to supporting local farmers, Kahan’s commitment to environmental practices is a constant thread throughout his life. We caught up with Paul to discuss his businesses and how they are going green.
NPB: Would you tell us about your restaurants?
Chef: Each of the 4 restaurants is a unique concept based on hospitality. Our goal is to provide continuity between food, service, and design. Blackbird, established in 1997, fine dining, modern-American cuisine and seasonality define the experience. Avec, next door to Blackbird, under Chef Koren Grieveson, provides Mediterranean-inspired peasant cuisine in a more communal environment. Avec refers to a philosophy based on sharing – sharing food, wine and time with family and friends. The Publican – modern American beer hall based on oysters, pork and beer. And Big Star, honkey-tonk taco joint. A taco joint specializing in authentic Mexican street food, tequila, whiskey and country LPs.
NPB: Your third restaurant, Publican, features pork dishes very prominently. Why did you make this decision?
Chef: Oysters, pork and beer – what sounds better?
NPB: Tell us about efforts you are making to help your restaurant be more environmentally friendly.
Chef: All of our restaurants have gone through green certification program – which is an ongoing program which evaluates the restaurant each year and teaches us to run our restaurants in a more environmentally friendly way.
NPB: There are a lot of buzzwords around food like local, sustainable, organic – what’s the most important thing to you?
Chef: Local and organic feed into sustainable. Hands down, minimizing impact on the earth is our primary directive.
NPB: You recently went on a tour of a pig farm in Iowa. What did you think?
Chef: It opened up my eyes to the great variance of pig farming methods used. I also got a greater understanding of the scale and amount of food actually produced. I learned economic and health advantages as they apply to different types of farms. All food for thought.
NPB: What are some environmentally conscious trends you are seeing in the foodservice industry?
Chef: I really don’t see trends; I see restaurants analyzing their entire operation to find sustainable options.
NPB: Why is it important for restaurants to be green?
Chef: We have approached our restaurants, from the very beginning, as sustainable in every way. We sustain great relationship with our purveyors and farmers and with cooks and former cooks, managers and former managers and most importantly with the way that we impact the earth. It’s important to us to leave the world a better place than we found it.
NPB: You are known for using the whole animal, and you are about to open a butcher shop where you’ll be featuring a wide range of cuts. Do you feel that using pork snout to tail is a good green practice?
Chef: Obviously, yes. Instead of product going to the trash, it’s all utilized and it also allows us to purchase and sell a higher quality and more sustainable product.
NPB: You got your degree in Math and Computer Science…how did you end up as the executive chef of four restaurants?
Chef: I grew up in the food industry in Chicago and ultimately just followed my passion.