In 2009, Aaron Franklin opened a barbecue trailer on a vacant lot in Austin. Two short years later, he moved into a brick-and-mortar building and Bon Appetit named Franklin Barbecue “The Best in America.” Now, the line reaches around the corner by 10:30am, and they’re usually sold out by 1:00pm.
Franklin’s meteoric rise to pit-master fame is unprecedented in an industry where tradition is as important as the food. But Franklin’s got barbecue in his blood – his parents owned a small barbecue stand in his native Bryan, Texas and passed on their love of the art.
Franklin’s secret? “Patience,” he says. We’re guessing there’s a little more to it.
NPB: Bon Appetit has recently dubbed Franklin’s Barbecue “The Best In America,” tell us about how you got started and what has brought you to this point in your career.
Chef: Well my love for BBQ started by doing backyard BBQs years ago. It was something that I always found myself getting into. But earlier than that, I had some amazing pork when I was at restaurant in Memphis 9 years ago, and so when I went back to Texas, I bought a butt and started cooking it myself. When I began experimenting I cooked mostly spare rib and brisket. It seems cliché, but one thing let to another, we opened a trailer 2 ½ years ago, and we’ve moved into the building we’re at now- and things couldn't be better.
NPB: As a Texas native, what influences have impacted your barbecue style?
Chef: My influences are of the German-Czech-Texas style barbecue. I honestly think the biggest thing, is to keep it simple. It may be a surprise but I only use salt and pepper on my barbecue. I don’t get into all of the extreme and complex rubs, because great BBQ is more about patience. Our style of BBQ is “No Sauce Allowed,” and around these-here-parts, if you’re covering your BBQ in sauce, you’re probably trying to hide something.
NPB: So you say that great barbecue is all about patience, what steps do you take in order to make sure your pork is perfectly cooked?
Chef: I think the main step is just taking time and maintaining the love. Also, you’ve got to keep a low and steady temperature. Secondly, don’t use gas, only wood; which is also the biggest variable. Lastly, keep it consistent, and make sure you don’t pull it off the smoker until its good and ready.
NPB: What’s your favorite technique for your pulled pork? How do you prep the meat before it goes into the cooker?
Chef: My favorite technique is just my simple rub: 1 part pepper to 1 part Kosher salt, super basic. It’s a really liberal rub, but the meat doesn’t need much else. It then goes fat side up on smoker, cooked hot for about 5 hours and wrapped in foil for another 3 hours until it’s done. You can tell that it’s done, by the smell and the feel of it. Especially with brisket and ribs- you can just pick it up and tell it’s done.
NPB: How long has it taken you to perfect the art of slow cooking barbecue? What mistakes have you encountered along the way?
Chef: Tons of mistakes! BBQ is all about trial and error, there are no set rules; you have to keep trying. With that being said, we haven’t mastered anything yet. I think if you think you’ve got it, you should probably re-assess. There are so many variable factors that are constantly changing around you, like prices, weather, wood, customer demand, technology and technique, which you have to adjust and evolve with. I’ve been doing this for almost 10 years and I certainly still have a lot to learn.
NPB: Your menu has everything from sausage, to pulled pork and ribs. Tell us about some menu items that didn’t make the cut, and why?
Chef: Those are the only ones we’ve attempted to cook. We’re already so past capacity on smokers we don’t have room for much else. It would be awesome to do chops, but we just can’t fit it in the smoker. For right now, we’re sticking to basics and doing them really well.
NPB: Do you offer ribs with flavors other than your signature rub?
Chef: Our ribs only have a 2-part pepper and 1-part Kosher salt rub. We don’t do any other rubs, but we do have three sauces that you’re more than welcome to dive into: Espresso Sauce, which is usually for beef. Then we have a Sweet Sauce, which is a basic Texas sauce, heavy on sugar, cumin and ketchup. Then we have a Pork Sauce, which is a Carolina-style sauce that’s mostly vinegar based. Sometimes I might squirt some Sweet Sauce on ribs and wrap it in foil to finish cooking. However, if I’m doing baby back ribs, I’ll do a honey and butter sauce.
NPB: Who or what do you credit, to your pit master success?
Chef: Wow, that’s a really good question. What do I credit? I have to probably just give my credit to curiosity. I’ve been thinking of ways to make everything better, since day one. Also, my wife has been a huge part of my success. She takes care of most of it around here; I think she’s the better half of Franklin’s. I also have to credit my right hand man, John Lewis. We couldn’t have pulled all of this off without him. He’s been around since the backyard BBQ days, even before the trailer, and he’s been helping out ever since.
NPB: All great chefs, have their secrets. Do you have a barbecue secret that you’re willing to share with our readers?
Chef: I don’t think there are any big secrets to BBQ. It’s so painfully simple, really. But, I guess the secret is just having patience. The key to great BBQ is more about patience and less about technique. But my advice to anyone who’s thinking about getting into the BBQ scene is: BE CAREFUL. You think you work a lot of hours at regular restaurant? Oh man, you don’t even know what’s coming!
NPB: You don’t have a closing time, you just close when you sell out. We bet you deal with a bit of disappointed customers- any funny stories you can share?
Chef: Unhappy customers happen from time to time. At this point, it’s sort of our M.O. We’ve had some people randomly walk in and see the tables being cleaned, the chairs upside-down, somebody counting the register and nobody else in the place and ask, “Can I get a ----?” And I think, “I mean, do we look open?” I’ve also had the unfortunates that didn’t get here in time when I sell out of something, tell me to go over to the grocery store and buy some pre cooked ribs, and that nobody would notice. I even had one customer say, “It must be nice to only work 3 hours a day.” Some customers have even asked, “Why don’t you just order more food?” And the answer is: because we don't have enough room on the smokers. You can only pay attention to so much food, and if we had twice the food, the line would be twice as long. But again, this only happens on occasion. For the most part, our customers know exactly what we’re all about.
NPB: Besides your own place, where are 4 of your other favorite places in Austin to eat pork?
Chef:
- Justine’s, a French brasserie with awesome pork chops.
- Random pork tamales from Texan households.
- Kreuz BBQ in Lockhart also has really amazing pork chops.
- Eastside Kings trailer owned by Paul Qui. It sits behind a bar, and the Pork Belly buns are definitely the best around.